India: six great hidden gems by train

Monisha Rajesh, author of Around India in 80 Trains, spent four months travelling the country's railways. Here she selects six great places to visit by train, from idyllic hill stations to coastal towns, beyond the main tourist hubs





The Neral to Matheran narrow-gauge toy train toy in Maharashtra. Photograph: Dinodia Photos/Alamy

Matheran, Maharashtra


When it comes to hill stations, forget Shimla, Darjeeling and Ooty, and ascend into the arms of Matheran, a walker's paradise hidden among the jungle-topped Sahyadri hills, 80km east of Mumbai. Originally used by the British to escape the Bombay heat, Matheran is vehicle-free and accessible only on foot, on horseback, or by the narrow-gauge toy train which trundles along tiny tracks laid in the dark-red clay. It's still an ideal weekend break from the heat and noise of Mumbai. Take a picnic to Charlotte Lake, view the mountains from Celia Point and head to Nariman Chikki Mart for some local chikki – a sweet made from groundnuts and jaggery. But beware the bold monkeys who bound alongside, viewing you as little more than a mobile tuck shop.

How to get there Matheran has a 40-rupee (50p) entrance fee. Opt to walk along the shaded tracks to the town, where you will spot single flip-flops dotted around the terrain. On your return take the 1½-hour toy train journey from Matheran down to Neral where you can then take a two-hour connection to Mumbai (£2.30 first class, 50p second class). You'll soon see ticketless passengers dangling off the side of the train, losing their flip-flops en route.

Where to stay The Verandah in the Forest (+91 2148 230810, the-verandah-in-the-forest.neemranahotels.com, twin rooms from £40) is a mansion hideaway which sings of colonial times

Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu

Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu. Photograph: Indiapicture/Alamy

A warm, friendly aura pervades Kanyakumari – along with the smell of dried fish. This peaceful town, perfect for an overnight-trip from Kerala, is the southernmost tip of the country where the Indian Ocean, the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea all meet, resulting in a unique marbling of multicoloured sand. Not one for bathers, the sea thrashes the rocky shores and is best observed from the manmade wall which runs along the seafront. On full-moon days the sunset and moonrise occur simultaneously, and on Chitra Pournami (in 2013 it falls on 25 April) when the sun and moon are face to face on the horizon – considered the prime time to witness the phenomenon. On regular days join the scores of people who gather on the beach before dawn waiting for the first crack of light over the sea.

How to get there It's a 2½-hour train ride from Trivandrum to Kanyakumari and the railway station is within walking distance from the seafront

Where to stay Hotel Seaview, (+91 4652 247841, hotelseaview.in, doubles from £40) is modern and family-friendly, with spectacular views of the sea

Orchha, Madhya Pradesh

Chhatris Bundela, Orchha, Madhya Pradesh. Photograph: Realimage/Alamy

Once home to the Bundela rajas, this pocket of serenity in Madhya Pradesh is made up of little more than a few dusty crossroads, a tumbling river filled with kids diving off the bridge, and the sound of the Hanuman temple's bells ringing in the distance. Most people drive past Orchha on their way to the infamous temples at Khajuraho but have no idea what they are missing, so stop off for a night or two. The Bundela palace looks like a lonely, run-down version of the City Palace in Udaipur and visitors are free to roam the grounds, filled with broken shrines containing the remnants of frescoes on the insides. Miles of emerald forest carpet the surrounding land with tips of turrets poking up from below.

How to get there Take the New Delhi-Bhopal Shatabdi Express from Delhi to Jhansi junction (4¾ hours) and then a taxi or auto rickshaw ride for the next 10 miles to Orchha

Where to stay Shri Mahant Guesthouse (+91 7680 252715, doubles from £6) on the steps of the Ram Raja temple is a budget, backpacker-friendly guesthouse with a terrace overlooking the marketplace

Diu Island

Tribal women carrying firewood to the markets of Diu. Photograph: imagebroker/Alamy

The island of Diu is an ex-Portuguese territory just off the southern coast of Gujarat. It looks like the set of a Rodgers and Hammerstein musical where houses are painted the colours of sugared almonds, under a china-blue sky chalk-marked with wisps of cloud. As Gujarat is a dry state, and Diu part of a union territory, it's used by many Gujaratis, much in the way that the English use Ibiza – to go and get hammered. For others looking for a week to unwind, it's a sleepy town with clean, empty beaches where peacocks fly from roof to roof and the remnants of its Christian settlers are still visible in the form of its Catholic churches: St Paul's where mass is still celebrated daily; St Francis of Assisi now partly used as a hospital; and St Thomas's which is now run by the D'Souza family, and contains a converted museum with guest rooms built into the back. The guesthouse is past its prime, but the family still hosts weekly barbecues with rockfish and calamari a speciality. For around £2.50 thrifty backpackers are welcome to sleep on the roof of the church – the highest point in Diu – which offers a spine-tingling romantic view over the ocean.

How to get there Take the overnight Somnath Express from Ahmedabad to Veraval then a local three-hour train to Una. An auto rickshaw will take you across the bridge to the island

Where to stay Genuine shabby chic, but brimming with character. Hotel São Tomé Retiro (+91 2875 253137) housed in St Thomas's Church, or for a few more creature comforts such as air conditioning, cable TV and a bar, try the centrally located Hotel Samrat(+91 2875 252354,hotelsamratdiu.com, doubles from £17)
Dwarka, Gujarat

Dwarka, Gujarat. Photograph: Francis Leroy/Hemis/Corbis

One of the westernmost points of the country, the coastal town of Dwarka is known as one of the four dhams, or abodes of the gods, and is thought to be the home of Lord Krishna. The Dwarkadhish temple on the banks of the Gomati river draws pilgrims from all over India and is one of the few temples to allow in non-Hindus even though western tourists are a rare sight in this part of the country. Most travellers thread through Gujarat to see the Asiatic lions in Sasan Gir, but it's worth making the 10-hour train journey from Ahmedabad just to watch the evening puja – when the deity is worshipped – and sit on the sandy banks as the sun comes down, the waves lick at the edges of saris and camels carry squealing newlyweds across the shore.

How to get there: Take the Saurashtra Mail from Ahmedabad to Dwarka (9hrs 40mins, general class £1.20, first class £16)

Where to stay Hotel Shree Darshan (+91 2892 235 034,hoteldarshandwarka.com, doubles from £15) is an excellent, value for money budget hotel with 24-hour room service

Gangtok, Sikkim

View of Kanchenjunga from Tashi viewpoint, Gangtok, Sikkim. Photograph: Robert Harding World Imagery/Alamy

Trimmed with prayer flags, and stacked with multi-levelled hotels and shops built up its steep ridges, the Buddhist-dominated capital of the northeastern state of Sikkim is just right for a two-day stopover before trekking further into the state. With its Swiss levels of cleanliness and lung-cleansing air it makes for a wonderful getaway. Uneven staircases cut into the ridges lead to curtain-covered shops and cafes; if you have a few hours to spare step into cosy Rachna Books which often hosts evenings of folk music and film screenings. However, the town's true allure lies with Kanchenjunga, the world's third highest mountain. Take a taxi to Tashi view point before dawn when the sun hits the eastern face, turning the peak to a golden pink hue.

How to get there All foreign nationals must obtain a 15-day permit to enter Sikkim, which is free and issued on the spot at Indian embassies, by immigration officers at major airports, or at the bus station in Siliguri – a junction town connecting the northeast with the rest of India. Take a shared jeep or a bus from the SNT terminal on Hill Cart Road in Siliguri

Where to stay The Golden Pagoda (+91 3592 206928,hotelgoldenpagoda.com, doubles from £15) has small musty rooms but sits bang on the main street and organises trips to Tashi view point. Ask for a room at the back of the hotel where you can pull open the curtains in the morning and be greeted by Kanchenjunga gleaming in the sunshine.


• Around India in 80 Trains by Monisha Rajesh is published by Nicholas Brealey, £10.99.

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